Itinerary:
Saturday:
Pick up at
Dijon Rail Station. Our transfer will take you from
Dijon to our first hotel in Montbard, the 3*** Hotel de L’Ecu in the
centre of this small town.
Sunday:
From Montbard we
head directly to the Abbaye de Fontenay, the oldest surviving
Cistercian abbey in the world. The Cistercian order was founded by
St Bernard as a direct response to the opulence and luxurious
lifestyle of the monks at Cluny, and the lack of decoration and pomp
at Fontenay is stark. The setting is a beautiful verdant river
valley, and the monks were self-sufficient, growing medicinal herbs
for their own hospital and mining local iron ore for their own
forge. They even managed to invent the world’s first pneumatic
hammer. Michelin gives Fontenay the maximum 3*** rating, ‘worth a
journey in itself’.
After lunch we follow the Canal du Bourgogne along
the towpath to Alise-Ste-Reine. Here, on the top of Mont Auxois, is
a giant statue of Vercengetoris erected by Napoleon III. Fleeing the
Romans, Vercengetorix and the Gauls made camp on top of Mont Auxois,
only to be surrounded by Caesar’s army. But, a far larger Gaul army
was on its way from Clermont Ferrand to relieve Vercengetorix.
Caesar built two sets of parallel defenses around the hill, the
first to keep Vercengetorix in, and the second to keep out the
250,000 strong Gaulish rabble . After six weeks Vercengetorix
surrendered, only to be paraded in Rome and subsequently strangled.
We follow the canal for a few more miles before climbing to the
beautiful walled town of Semur-en-Auxois. Tonight we stay at the
3*** Hotel d’Aussois where the menu offers a selection that includes
several Burgundy classics.
Distance 31 miles / 52 km
Monday:
Downhill, and
back to the canal at Marigny le Cahouët. We’ll need it today as we
cycle through an area that might normally be too hilly to tackle.
The Canal de Bourgogne has been described as the most beautiful
route in France, and it’s certainly a great trick for tackling
hills. The quality of the towpath varies on this section, so we’ll
be forced onto the road on occasion, but this is no great hardship
as we pass through delightful villages like Braux and St Thibault.
At Pouilly-en-Auxois the canal reaches its summit, the highest point
on the canal network of France, and by the time we get there you’ll
know you’ve been cycling uphill. At Pouilly the canal
disappears into a tunnel, and we have to cycle over the top of the
hill that was too high for the canal to go over. But, when we get to
the top it’s a simple ride of 3 or 4 kilometres to the delightful
3*** hotel of Château de Sainte Sabine.
Distance 28 miles / 45 km
Tuesday:
We start with a
detour up the hill to visit the pretty village and old fortress of
Chateauneuf. Our route then follows the canal and the river Ouche
through beautiful forests all the way into Dijon, the last few miles
following a dedicated cycle path. We cycle past delightful
canal-side villages and restaurants passing through Velars, which
gives us the chance to visit one of the famous mustard factories of
Dijon.
Tonight we stay at the Hostellerie de Sauvage
where the owners particularly welcome cyclists, and (weather
permitting) we eat in their lovely courtyard. Dijon is a fascinating
place. Historically the aristocracy of Burgundy built their town
houses here, close to the Palais des Ducs. The centre of it all is
the Duke’s palace, now the town hall, and also housing the Musée des
Beaux-Arts.
Distance 31 miles / 50 km
Wednesday:
And now
the wine country! We leave Dijon alongside the Canal du
Bourgogne and head west towards the Côtes D’Or. We follow tiny roads
and tracks through vineyards with tastings at Domaine Fougery de
Beauclair in Marsannay and in Gevrey-Chambertin, and visit the Clos
de Vougeot before we arrive at Nuits St Georges where we stay at the
Hostellerie Saint Vincent.
The Chateau at Clos de Vougeot is well worth a
visit. Originally built by the monks of the Abbaye de Citeaux, the
Chateau has been restored to its former idiosyncratic glory. One
room dating back to the 12th century contains four
original oak presses that are truly enormous, each one weighing over
20 tons. The main function room is the old wine cellar. The Château
also boasts a ‘spectacular’ 14th century pitched roof.
A 15-minute slide show starts off with a cleverly illuminated
display of the roof. It is spectacular.
Distance 22 miles / 35 km
Thursday:
Still in the
heart of wine country we explore the Côtes de Beaune visiting the
beautiful villages of Savigny-les-Beaune and Aloxe-Corton on our
route to Beaune. Here, the wine makers can’t command the sky-high
prices of their more illustrious neighbors, but at their best still
produce high-quality wines, both red from the pinot noir grape, and
whites from the Chardonnay grape.
Today is a relatively short cycling day, so we’ll
try to taste wine in both Aloxe and Savigny before we make our way
to Beaune in time to visit the amazing Hospice de Hôtel de Dieu.
Beaune is dominated by the wine industry. The old town exists still
behind its old wall. The highlight is the Hospice, and a visit is a
must. We stay about 4 miles out of Beaune in Ste Marie-la-Blanche.
Distance 22 miles / 35 km
Friday:
Tonight we’ll be
returning to Ste Marie-la-Blanche so no need to pack. There are a
series of classic wine villages running south of Beaune toward Macon
and the Beaujolais region. Once again we’re on tiny roads winding
through the vineyards as we visit Pommard, Volnay and Meursault,
home to white wines hailed as the finest in the world. We’ll taste
in Volnay, home to some of the finest reds of the Côtes de Beaune.
From Meursault we cycle to the village of
Puligny-Montrachet where we taste with Olivier-Lefalive Freres
before going onto Chassagne-Montrachet and onto Cagny, where we join
the Canal du Centre on a tailor-made cycle path and begin our return
to Ste Marie-la-Blanche via tiny roads with the hills of the Côtes
D’Or behind us. Distance 25 miles / 40
km
Saturday: Transfer to
Dijon Rail Station at approximately 10.00 am. |