Itinerary:
Day 1 - Saturday
Our tour starts in Montbard, north
of Dijon. The best way there is via Dijon,
TGV from Paris We arrange transfers to our first hotel in
Montbard, the 3***
Hotel de L'Ecu. Our host, Gerard Coupat, is a wonderful chef
offering gourmet food and and a wine list to match it.
Day 2 - Sunday
From Montbard we head directly to
the Abbaye de Fontenay, the oldest surviving Cistercian abbey in
the world. The Cistercian order was founded by St Bernard as a
direct response to the luxurious lifestyle of the monks at Cluny.
The setting is a beautiful river
valley, and the monks were self-sufficient, growing medicinal
herbs for their own hospital and mining local iron ore for their
own forge. They even managed to invent the world's first pneumatic
hammer.
We then follow the Canal du
Bourgogne to Alise-Ste-Reine, where there is a giant statue of
Vercengetorix erected by Napolean III. Fleeing the Romans,
Vercengetorix and the Gauls made camp on top of Mont Auxois, only
to be surrounded by Ceasar's army. A
far larger Gaul army was on its way from Clermont Ferrand, so Ceasar
built two sets of parallel defenses around the hill, the first to
keep Vercengetorix in, and the second to keep out the Gaulish
rabble . After six weeks Vercengetorix surrendered, only to be
paraded in Rome and subsequently strangled.
We follow the canal again before
climbing to the beautiful walled town of Semur-en-Auxois. There is
some irony in this name as Semur derives from the Latin "sine
muros" (without walls).
The town is surrounded on three
sides by steep cliffs carved by the river Armancon, and is a truly
beautiful little town. Tonight we stay at the 3***
Hotel d'Aussois where the menu includes several Burgundy classics.
27
miles / 44 Km
Day 3 - Monday
Downhill, and back to the canal at
Marigny le Cahouët. The Canal de Bourgogne has been described as
the most beautiful route in France. The
quality of the towpath varies on this section, so we'll be forced
onto the road on occasion, but this is no great hardship as we
pass through delightful villages like Braux and St Thibault. At
Pouilly-en-Auxois the canal reaches its summit, the highest point
on the canal, and by the time we get there you'll know you've been
cycling uphill.
At Pouilly the canal disappears into a tunnel, and we continue
our tour over the top of the hill and down
the other side to the delightful village of Chateauneuf.
34
miles / 55 Km
Day 4 - Tuesday
Returning to the canal we can
reflect that having passed the summit point it must be all
downhill to Dijon. Our route now follows the canal and a cycle
path through beautiful forests all the way into Dijon. Today we
cycle past more than 50 locks, and as well as delightful
canal-side villages and restaurants we pass through Velars, and
the chance to visit one of the famous mustard factories of Dijon.
Tonight we stay at the Hostellerie
de Sauvage where the owners particularly welcome cyclists, and
weather permitting we can eat in their lovely courtyard. Dijon is
a fascinating place. Historically, Dijon was the home of Burgundy
's aristocracy. Anxious to be within the protection offered by the
city walls, they were forced to buy existing plots of land and
buildings to build their townhouses, which has led to the
fascinating juxtaposition of grand town houses shoe-horned into
strangely shaped plots alongside the housing and shops of ordinary
Dijonais. The centre of it all is the Duke's palace, now the town
hall, and also housing the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
46
miles / 74 Km
Day 5 - Wednesday
Wine country here we come! Now we
visit the Côtes D'Or and the famous vineyards of Nuits St George
and Beaune.
Today we leave Dijon
alongside the Canal du Bourgogne before heading west towards the
hills of the Côtes D'Or. We follow tiny roads and tracks
through vineyards, visiting vineyards in Marsannay and in
Gevrey-Chambertin, as well as the Clos de Vougeot before we arrive
at Nuits St Georges where we stay at the Hostellerie Saint
Vincent.
The Chateau at Clos de Vougeot is
well worth a visit. Originally built by the monks of the Abbaye de
Citeaux, the Chateau has been beautifully restored. One room
dating back to the 12th century contains four original oak presses
that are truly enormous, each one weighing over 20 tons. Once a
year one of these presses is still used when the Confrérie des
Chevaliers du Tastevin kick off Les Trois Glorieuses on the eve of
the Beaune auction.
The main function room is the old
wine cellar. It isn't actually a cellar - the monks replicated the
attributes of a cellar by building a vast low-ceilinged room with
tiny windows and a roof of soil several feet thick. The Château
also boasts a 'spectacular' 14th century pitched roof. 16
miles / 26 Km
Day 6 - Thursday - More
Wine Tasting in the Côtes D'Or
We stay in the heart of wine
country but today has a different feel to it. Yesterday our
cycling holiday led us through world-famous vineyards, producers
of wines that most of us will never taste. Today, as we explore
the Côtes de Beaune, we tackle some more challenging cycling and
visit the beautiful villages of Savigny-les-Beaune and
Aloxe-Corton on our route to Beaune. Here, the wine makers can't
command the sky-high prices of their more illustrious neighbours,
but at their best still produce high-quality wines.
Today is a relatively short cycling
day, so we should have time for wine tasting in both Aloxe and
Savigny before we make our way to Beaune.
Beaune is dominated by the wine
industry. The old town exists still behind its old wall, and the
centre is filled with the premises of négociantes as well as the
wonderful Athanæum shop, a serious threat to the wallet of any
wine-lover, and featuring books and artefacts as well as its fine
wine shop. The highlight, though, is the Hospice, and a visit is a
must. We stay about 4 miles out of Beaune in Ste Marie-la-Blanche.
16
miles / 26 Km
Day 7 - Friday - Probably
the Best White Wines in the World
We're staying at Ste
Marie-la-Blanche again tonight. There are a whole series of
classic wine villages running south of Beaune toward Macon and the
Beaujolais region. Once again
we're on tiny roads winding through the vineyards as we visit
Pommard, Volnay and Meursault, home to white wines hailed as the
finest in the world. The name derives from the local name for the
valley that divides them from Beaune, the Rat's Leap.
From Meursault we cycle to the
village of Puligny-Montrachet where we'll do some wine tasting
with Olivier-Lefalive Freres. After
wine tasting, we go onto Chassagne-Montrachet and then to Cagny,
where we join the Canal du Centre on a tailor-made cycle path.
We then begin our return to Ste
Marie-la-Blanche via tiny roads with the hills of the Côtes D'Or
behind us. 25
miles / 40 Km
Day 8 - Saturday
Morning departure to Dijon Rail
Station from where one can take a TGV train to Paris. |