Itinerary:
Day 1 - Saturday
Transfer from the rail
station at Anguoleme to Les Eyzies in the heart of the Périgord,
and meet up in the evening for a feast of gourmet food at
Le Moulin de la Beune.
Day 2 - Sunday
This isn't wine country
yet, but it is beautiful. Our cycling holiday takes us
over the 'Cingle de Tremolat' where we're treated to
lovely views across the Dordogne
valley.
We take a lunch break at
the lovely Bastide town of Limeuil
where the Dordogne and Vézère rivers meet. We end the
day at Lalinde, another Bastide and once an important town
where the canal took boat-traffic past the rapids of the
Dordogne.24
miles / 39 Km
Day 3
- Monday - Wine
Tasting with the Count
Today we enter Bordeaux
wine country. We're headed for St Foy La Grand, just the
other side of the Bergerac appellation, but en route we
visit two very special areas within the Bergerac vineyard.
First is Pécharment, locally
styled as 'The St Emilion of Bergerac'. This appellation
dates from way before Bergerac was similarly honoured, and
the growers take great pride in their wines.
We'll partake in wine
tasting at Château
Tiregand, courtesy of Le Comte de St Exupéry.
The Comte is a great host
and one of the most respected winemakers in the region, he
makes wine tasting interesting and a great pleasure.
In the afternoon we
continue our cycling tour through Monbazillac, home of
exquisite sweet wines. These wines are extremely difficult
to make. The yields are tiny, and as you'll see, the
vignerons are justly proud of their wines. Dominique
Vidal, of Chateau Fonmourges where we'll partake in wine
tasting this afternoon, is a specialist with an
encyclopedic knowledge of his subject.
We end the day in St Foy,
one of the best preserved Bastides in France. En route we
pass through Bergerac, with a beautiful 'old town' and a
rich history. 38
miles / 61 Km
Day 4 - Tuesday
Today we follow the
Dordogne, first passing through the appellation of
Montravel. A single estate can produce wines under
five separate "Appellation d'Origin Contrôllée",
and at le Puy Servain we meet one of the finest winemakers
in the region;
Passing the 'monument of
shame' (the Monument
Talbot, where the English Admiral Talbot finally lost
The Hundred Years War in 1453) we cycle through Castillon
to arrive in St Emilion. We
visit Château Belair, one of St Emilion's top wine
estates, for a wine tasting and a tour of their amazing
underground caverns, and this evening we eat at the
restaurant of Francis Goulée.
St Emilion, with its
medieval cobbles, gourmet food, centuries-old wine
traditions and ancient monolithic church, is
unforgettable. 28
miles / 45 Km
Day 5 - Wednesday
Today is a long cycle ride
- almost 40 miles. We leave the Dordogne at Libourne and
enter the Gironde. We pass through St Andre de Cubzac,
birthplace and resting place of Jacques Cousteau and we
cycle through Pomerol, Fronsac and the Côtes de Bourg on
our way to the Gironde port of Blaye, gateway to Bordeaux.
Our hotel tonight is the
delightful Auberge de Porches, where the owner has a
deserved reputation for her adventurous cooking - she
needs almost no provocation to pull out articles featuring
her hotel and its gourmet cuisine. Blaye boasts a huge
Citadelle that once protected the approaches to Bordeaux
from the English.
Depending on timing today,
we can taste at one of the premier estates in this
under-rated appellation, Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours,
and perhaps at the Syndicat du Vin in Blaye.. 39
miles / 63 Km
Day 6 - Thursday
- The Haut Médoc, the
Heartland of Bordeaux.
This is a lazy day.
We cross the Gironde by ferry to Cussac, and make our way
to the Bernard family at Château du Raux in the Haut Médoc.
This is the popular image of wine-making in France, a
family estate producing quality wines as a family
business.
The son, Patrick, is a
highly qualified wine-maker, and provides a fascinating
insight into wine - with luck you'll be wine tasting
direct from the barrel. The process of extracting wine
from the barrel is fascinating if you haven't seen it
before, and involves a drill, a crowbar and an ingenious
device that holds a glass and a candle.
After lunch we'll visit one
of the more famous names of the Haut Médoc at Chateau
Lynch-Bages, an opportunity to watch one of the finest
names in wine-making going about their business. Time and
energy permitting, we might also have the opportunity to
visit the museum at Mouton Rothschild. At this carefully
manicured estates of the Grand Cru Classé in the Haut Médoc
it is fascinating to see the difference. Tonight we stay
in Pauillac, the world centre of fine wine.
14
miles / 23 Km
Day 7 - Friday
The Médoc.
Today we 'descend' from the
Haut Médoc (literally the High Medoc) to the Médoc.!
The landscape changes.
Centuries ago Dutch engineers built causeways between the
gravel areas of the Médoc and drained the land in between
to reclaim the land that we cycle through today, and the
gravel deposits are where the vineyards are. Leaving
behind the well-known estates of the Haut Médoc we have
the chance to visit fascinating estates today.
At Le Tour de By they still
use huge wooden vats that are almost never seen these
days, and at Château Loudenne we can see how a superbly
organised commercial vineyard works. Our final resting
place tonight is a return to Pauillac. 34
miles / 55 Km
Day 8 - Saturday
Our cycling holiday ends
with an early departure for the train station in Bordeaux.
Trains depart from here to Paris.
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