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Itinerary:
Day
1: Arrive Pisa airport. Take the
train from Pisa to Fornaci di Barga (2 hours; normally change trains en
route at Lucca). Fornaci, “the cave of clay” with its little town,
derives its name from the solitary brick kiln which existed in the area
before 1915. From here, Monte Penna, Gragno and Cardoso can be viewed.
Today the town is more famous for its copper works.
Day
2: There is an early morning start for your five hour walk today,
which will take you mostly through woods from Fornaci to Verni, with 600m
difference in altitude. Passing the river Serchio, you ascend to Cardoso,
a medieval hamlet with a beautiful Roman church. As the footpath climbs,
the vegetation changes from oaks to chestnuts. Just after the grotto of
Casteltendine there is a superior vantage point from a rock with a cross,
which affords a wonderful view of the highest summits of the Apennines,
including Giovo, Rondinaio and Tre Potenze. Passing a little shepherd's
hamlet, you make your way to Verni (732m) a very charming and picturesque
hilltop home to a mere 80 inhabitants, who are spoilt for choice with no
less than four churches and many little chapels, which bear testimony to
its rich past. Overnight in Verni. Perhaps visit the old ruins of a castle
from where there are splendid views. There are some authentically intact
old streets. 14km/ 9miles 5.5hrs walking. Ascent 710m; descent 400m.
Day
3: : 6 hour walk from Verni, and passing Trassilico, a second very
charming village; following a high track with stunning views across the
Apuane Alps. Pass by the little village of San Pellegrinetto and the
totally abandoned village of Col di Luco and overnight in the typical
Apuane village of Fornovolasco where we have three nights. 15km/ 9
miles.5.5hrs walking. Ascent 600m; descent 650m.
Day
4: Circular 6 hour walk to Monte Forato (1223m), with panoramic views
to the Mediterranean, the woods and Apuane villages below. 600 metres
difference in altitude. Walk through chestnut trees to the Foci di
Petrosciana- an old crossroads, from where you may view the sea. There are
two options from here: either an easy ascent or a longer footpath to Monte
Forato, a splendid natural arch. There is a great view of Procinto with
its perpendicular rock-face and Monte Nono from here. We continue until
just under the Pania, which from below is rather breathtaking, then
descend along a footpath by abandoned houses to Fornovolasco. 10km/ 6
miles. 6hrs walking. Ascent 790m; descent 790m.
Day
5: Begin the day with a short walk around Fornovolasco, then onward to
visit the famous Grotto del Vento, with its internal lakes, stalagmites
and stalactites. After lunch you could use the maps to follow an easy
strada bianca offering gorgeous views of the Turrite river, and Trassilico.
Return to Fornovolasco. Distance varies depending on where you go, but it
is meant to be an easy day because tomorrow is the longest and hardest! 3
hours including caves.
Day
6: : If the weather is good and you are up for a hard day we recommend
the ascent of Pania della Croce (1860m), with a 1400m difference in
altitude. This 9-hour (some people have found it up to 11 hours) walk
involves a reasonably tough ascent, but the reward is definitely worth the
effort in the view over the sea, the marble quarries, the Apennines and
the Apuanes. This view is yours only if you reach the summit (and the
weather is kind)! The way winds up on a good footpath with sometimes
stunning views; it makes its way up through pleasant woods to Piglionico,
which has a chapel dedicated to the Partisans who fell in the area. A
footpath takes you to the beech forest boundary, where, in a basin between
the two summits, Pania Secca and Pania della Croce, we find Rifugio Rossi.
Another hour's walk would take you to either of the two summits, but the
view from Pania della Croce is much more pleasing. Descent to Rifugio
Rossi and onto the 11th century hermitage of Eremo di Calomini, with its
community of monks for your overnight stay. 27km/17 miles 9hrs walking.
Ascent 1400m approx; descent 1500m approx. As part of the route up and
down is the same this day can readily be shortened especially if the
weather is closing in. There is also a shorter alternative today following
the Valley of the Turrite River, once again with good views.
Day
7: Eremo di Calomini to Fornaci di Barga a 4-hour easy walk, with a
descent of about 300m. You will pass through Gallicano, although perhaps
not as attractive as the other villages on the route there is, a
neo-gothic aqueduct and a beautiful Roman church - worth a visit. 11km/
7.5 miles, 4hrs walking. Some people have taken bus from Gallicano to the
attractive town of Barga and then walked back to Fornaci. (approx 6 km
extra). Or they have taken the bus from Gallicano to Fornacci de Barga and
then walked up to Barga. (This is all explained in the route notes).
Day
8: Depart by train to Pisa (50 mins). We can also recommend that you
spend an afternoon or extra night looking around the beautiful city of
Lucca. We can arrange accommodation here on request.
Accommodation:
Accommodation
in the Apuane Alps is generally of a more simple standard than one might
expect in the more popular parts of Tuscany. It is however clean and
comfortable.
We spend our first and last night in Fornaci di Barga at a
centrally located modern 3* hotel. Then a small pension in the village
of Verni which was once a Roman colony. The pension has a terrace
with a wonderful view of Trassilico.
Our next three nights are spent in Fornovolasco at a typical
small unclassified hotel, the rooms are simply furnished and share a
bathroom.
The penultimate night is spent at the Eremo di Calomini, an
ancient hermitage site carved into rock walls, now converted into
charming unusual rooms and a superb restaurant.
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