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Itinerary:
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Day 1: Arrive
Pisa airport. Take the train from Pisa to Fornaci di Barga (2 hours;
normally change trains en route at Lucca). Fornaci, “the cave of clay”
with its little town, derives its name from the solitary brick kiln which
existed in the area before 1915. From here, Monte Penna, Gragno and
Cardoso can be viewed. Today the town is more famous for its copper works.
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Day 2: There is
an early morning start for your 5 hour walk today, which will take you
mostly through woods from Fornaci to Verni, with 600m difference in
altitude. Passing the River Serchio, you ascend to Cardoso, a medieval
hamlet with a beautiful Roman church. As the footpath climbs, the
vegetation changes from oaks to chestnuts. Just after the grotto of
Casteltendine there is a superior vantage point from a rock with a cross,
which affords a wonderful view of the highest summits of the Apennines,
including Giovo, Rondinaio and Tre Potenze. Passing a little shepherd's
hamlet, you make your way to Verni (732m) a very charming and picturesque
hilltop home to a mere 80 inhabitants, who are spoilt for choice with no
less than four churches and many little chapels, which bear testimony to
its rich past. Overnight in Verni. Perhaps visit the old ruins of a castle
from where there are splendid views. There are some authentically intact
old streets. 14km/ 9miles 5.5hrs walking. Ascent 710m; descent 400m.
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Day 3: : 6 hour
walk from Verni, and passing Trassilico, a second very charming village;
following a high track with stunning views across the Apuane Alps. Pass by
the little village of San Pellegrinetto and the totally abandoned village
of Col di Luco and overnight in the typical Apuane village of Fornovolasco
where we have three nights. 15km/ 9 miles.5.5hrs walking. Ascent 600m;
descent 650m.
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Day 4: Circular
6 hour walk to Monte Forato (1223m), with panoramic views to the
Mediterranean, the woods and Apuane villages below. 600 metres difference
in altitude. Walk through chestnut trees to the Foci di Petrosciana- an
old crossroads, from where you may view the sea. There are two options
from here: either an easy ascent or a longer footpath to Monte Forato, a
splendid natural arch. There is a great view of Procinto with its
perpendicular rock-face and Monte Nono from here. We continue until just
under the Pania, which from below is rather breathtaking, then descend
along a footpath by abandoned houses to Fornovolasco. 10km/ 6 miles. 6hrs
walking. Ascent 790m; descent 790m.
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Day 5: Begin the
day with a short walk around Fornovolasco, then onward to visit the famous
Grotto del Vento, with its internal lakes, stalagmites and stalactites.
After lunch you could use the maps to follow an easy strada bianca
offering gorgeous views of the Turrite river, and Trassilico. Return to
Fornovolasco. Distance varies depending on where you go, but it is meant
to be an easy day because tomorrow is the longest and hardest! 3 hours
including caves.
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Day 6: : If the
weather is good and you are up for a hard day we recommend the ascent of
Pania della Croce (1860m), with a 1400m difference in altitude. This
9-hour (some people have found it up to 11 hours) walk involves a
reasonably tough ascent, but the reward is definitely worth the effort in
the view over the sea, the marble quarries, the Apennines and the Apuanes.
This view is yours only if you reach the summit (and the weather is kind)!
The way winds up on a good footpath with sometimes stunning views; it
makes its way up through pleasant woods to Piglionico, which has a chapel
dedicated to the Partisans who fell in the area. A footpath takes you to
the beech forest boundary, where, in a basin between the two summits,
Pania Secca and Pania della Croce, we find Rifugio Rossi. Another hour's
walk would take you to either of the two summits, but the view from Pania
della Croce is much more pleasing. Descent to Rifugio Rossi and onto the
11th century hermitage of Eremo di Calomini, with its community of monks
for your overnight stay. 27km/17 miles 9hrs walking. Ascent 1400m approx;
descent 1500m approx. As part of the route up and down is the same this
day can readily be shortened especially if the weather is closing in.
There is also a shorter alternative today following the Valley of the
Turrite River, once again with good views.
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Day 7: Eremo di
Calomini to Fornaci di Barga a 4-hour easy walk, with a descent of about
300m. You will pass through Gallicano, although perhaps not as attractive
as the other villages on the route there is, a neo-gothic aqueduct and a
beautiful Roman church - worth a visit. 11km/ 7.5 miles, 4hrs walking.
Some people have taken bus from Gallicano to the attractive town of Barga
and then walked back to Fornaci. (approx 6 km extra). Or they have taken
the bus from Gallicano to Fornaci de Barga and then walked up to Barga.
(This is all explained in the route notes).
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Day 8: Depart
after breakfast.
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