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Itinerary:
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Day 1: Arrival at first hotel in Cordes, an
amazing medieval town of cobbled streets, which is perched on a hilltop
high above the surrounding countryside. It is a bastide town, founded in
what was then (and still is) a remote rural district in the 13th century;
lacking a name, it took its name from the great Spanish city of Cordova.
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Day 2: Cordes to Roussayrolles. 15km/9.3miles
(4.5hours). Before leaving Cordes, there is time to explore the lovely
covered market, ancient streets and carved facades of the old buildings.
Then wind your way down through the Porte des Ormeaux to Les Cabannes and
across fields and an ancient stone bridge, skirting a little vineyard.
Scattered farms and shady woodland lead you to Roussayrolles. You turn
right at the old stone cross to arrive at your destination at Les Clauzels,
an isolated farmhouse overlooking a great expanse of forest on the south
side of the Aveyron valley.
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Day 3: Roussayrolles to Penne. 20km /
12.5miles (5 hours). Bidding farewell to your friendly hosts, return to
the old stone cross and pick up the GR signs. Passing abandoned water
mills, climb through a pinewood to arrive at the massive Dolmen de Vaour
at an ancient crossroads. On a little hill above the village of Vaour are
the ruins of the Commanderie and stables of the Knights Templars who had a
base here during the crusades. Your path takes you along a wooded
limestone scarp with splendid views across the Aveyron gorge. Arrive at
the little village of Penne, clustered below the ruins of the castle.
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Day 4: Penne to Puycelci. 20km / 12.5miles (5
hours). Wander through the village and up to the castle, perched on its
queer jutting promontory, as though it has grown from the rock, and admire
the view. Then descend to the Aveyron Bridge and continue yesterday's walk
along the scarp. Having re-crossed the River Aveyron, climb up and explore
lovely old Bruniquel, with its C13 and C16 castles. Your path then climbs
to take you through the ancient forest of Gresigne, which has many
varieties of holly, some unique to this region, and the marks of
prehistoric man. You emerge at the old Bastide town of Puycelci.
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Day 5: Puycelci to Castelnau de Montmiral.
20km / 12.4miles (6 hours). Cross the green valley of the River Vere and
climb through the village of Laval to follow the edge of a wood. Follow
the GR signs through vineyards, climb through a wood to the ruins of
Lagarde. Head along a ridge with views of Castelnau de Montmirail as you
approach it.
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Day 6: Castelnau de Montmirail to Cordes. 24km
/14.9m (6 hours) or 20km / 12.4.m (5 hours). An easier day in the flatter
country initially through the vineyards of Gaillac to the little town of
Cahuzac-sur-Vere. The finish is hillier, past the Chateau de Clayrac to a
stunning view of Cordes as you approach it and a satisfying finish as you
return to complete the circle at your starting point.
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Day 7: Depart Cordes
Accommodation
6
nights/7 days - Our first and last night at Cordes sur Ciel are
in a comfortable 2* hotel, with a charming courtyard. At Les Clauzels
we lodge in an old farmhouse, where horses are reared, with very
hospitable English-speaking hosts. In Penne we have homely accommodation
by the ruins of the castle. Then we stay at the splendid Bastide of Puycelci,
in a 3* hotel that was built in the 18th century. In Castelnau de
Montmiral, the accommodation is a small hotel in the arcaded medieval
square.
The
hotel for our optional night at Albi is a ten minute walk from the
cathedral and convenient for the train station.
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